Adire is the resist-dyed indigo cloth of Abeokuta, traditionally made on cotton. Patterns are created by tying, folding, stitching or painting starch onto the cloth before it goes into the indigo vat. Where the cloth is protected, it stays pale.
Why silk
Silk takes indigo differently from cotton. The colour sits deeper and has a slight sheen, and the pattern edges soften into the cloth. It is harder to dye evenly, which is exactly why we like it: every length has its own character.
We do not ask the dyers for perfection. We ask them for their hand.
Working with the workshops
We buy plain silk twill in Lagos and send it to two family workshops in Abeokuta. They are paid for the dyeing, not by the metre sold, so they never need to rush. The silk comes back in about three weeks, washed three times so the indigo is set.
From length to cape
In the studio we lay out each length and decide where the strongest part of the pattern will fall. Usually that is across the shoulders and down the back. The cape is lined in mint silk so the inside flashes when you turn.
Looking after adire silk
Dry clean only, and keep it away from pale silks for the first few wears. Over the years the indigo softens a little, which many clients say is when it looks best.