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SAFFIRAAGODI · IBADAN
A seamstress sewing by hand

Craft, 7 min read

The adire revival

In Itoku, young dyers are reviving resist patterns their grandmothers drew, and changing what adire means for a new generation.

written by Morenike Adesanya-Bellopublished October 2026

A cloth that never went away

Adire, the indigo resist cloth of Abeokuta and Ibadan, never disappeared. It moved to the market stalls and the everyday. What is new is a generation of dyers in their twenties who draw their own patterns and sign them.

Cassava paste and patience

The classic adire eleko pattern is drawn freehand with cassava paste through a feather or a stencil. Where the paste sits, the indigo cannot reach. A cloth can take two days to draw and nine dips to dye.

  • Oniko: tied with raffia before dyeing
  • Alabere: stitched with thread to resist the dye
  • Eleko: drawn with starch paste by hand

Why we pay before we cut

Every dyer we work with is paid for the metre before it is dyed, at a price they set. It means a young dyer can turn down a cheap order and spend the time a pattern needs.

Wearing it now

Our Adire, re-cut collection treats the cloth as tailoring. Indigo fades with wear, and we think that is the point: a coat that records the years you wore it.

At a glance

The details

Example figures for this demo.

TechniqueMethodTime per cloth
OnikoTied with raffia1 day
AlabereStitched by hand2 to 3 days
ElekoPainted with cassava paste2 days
DyeingUp to nine dips in indigo3 to 5 days
Good cloth is patient. It waits for the right hands.Morenike Adesanya-Bello