The wind from the north
The harmattan is the dry north-easterly that blows from late November to March. It carries fine dust from the Sahara, softens the sun to a pale disc and drops the night temperature in the north to the low teens. In Lagos it shows up as hazy mornings and dry lips. In Yankari it changes everything.
Why the animals come to you
With no rain for months, the bush thins and the waterholes shrink. Elephants, antelope and baboons walk to the Gaji river every morning and evening. Instead of searching the park, you wait where the water is. That is why our northern season runs from November to April.
The light, and the photographs
Dust in the air turns sunrise and sunset deep orange. Midday light is flat and pale, so we drive early and late. Bring a lens cloth and a zip bag for your camera; the dust gets into everything.
In the harmattan you do not search the park. You wait where the water is, and the park comes to you.
Looking after yourself
Drink more water than you think you need. Bring lip balm, a light scarf for the face on dusty drives and eye drops if you wear contact lenses. Mornings can be 14 degrees, so pack a fleece for the first drive.
When to go
Late January to early March is the sweet spot: the harmattan is easing, the animals are concentrated and the roads are dry. December is lovely but busy with festive bookings, so plan early.